PROJETO VIVER - Serra Talhada (The Living Project)

Dear family and friends,

Hoping all is well with you and your family and that you have a lovely Christmas.

‘PROJETO VIVER - Serra Talhada’ is organised by a marvellous lady called Ivaneide who devotes her spare time to help others.



For me, Ivaneide is like the Mother Teresa of Serra Talhada. She has recruited about 50 colleagues and friends to carry out this work which is supported by her employer TUPAN (like 'B & Q' - a large DIY shop).

Recently, I was invited to see them working with 20 poor elderly residents who live in the Ana Ribeiro home in Serra Talhada.

Please look at Sara's flogao: http://www.flogao.com.br/richardmcgill where I have posted a photo taken by 'Projeto Viver'. As you can see this child in the photo has no bed (and probably has had little food).

You can see the rest at: http://projetoviverserratalhada.blogspot.com/showing the team handing out goodies to the poor children, to help them smile, on the night of 28 November 2007.

Between now and Christmas, Ivaneide and her team will knock on doors in the better-off areas of the town to ask for donations of basic foods which will be distributed shortly after. To avoid unfair distribution, the team visits the poor family and gives them a special code number. The representative from the family needs to quote this code to get the food parcel from the distribution point.

One of Ivaneide's good friends who works in local government donates all of her salary to 'Projeto Viver' as well as devoting all of her spare time to help them practically. Her charity work comes first and she often leaves her desk in the middle of work to help others whenever they need her. She just says, "There are plenty others here who can finish my work in the office - I'm needed elsewhere". Thankfully this way of working has become accepted by her bosses because of the type of person she is and in recognition of the good work she does.

Another friend of Ivaneide’s is wheelchair-bound but she is always at the centre, where the work is, usually in the kitchen organising. Although a lot of people are needy some others really do knuckle down to help too.



Is all this necessary in Serra Talhada, December 2007. Yes, I'm afraid it is. Enough said!! This is the charity I have chosen to become involved in as it is totally run by faithful volunteers who really want to make a difference.

Perhaps you could recruit some support for them by passing on the URL of this Blog: http://familymcgill-ourlifeinbrasil.blogspot.com to friends and colleagues??

In this way, hopefully, the quality of life can be improved for the poorest people here in Serra Talhada and district. If you want to know more, or help in any way email: projetoviverserratalhada@oi.com.br

Have a Happy Christmas.
God Bless. Love from us all,
Richard, Ivonete and Sara XXX

Fliptrack

A Good Read! - - - - - - Chris Hunter - Eight Lives Down

Chris Hunter has just published his book "Eight Lives Down" about his experience in Iraq as a bomb technician. The most dangerous job in the world in the most dangerous place in the world. Good luck with it Chris! The "News of the World," UK Sunday Newspaper is serialising the book. This is surely going to be a best seller.


ABOUT THIS BOOK

Visceral and compelling, Eight Lives Down is the most exciting and nerve-jangling work of military non-fiction since Bravo Two Zero.

"If fate is against me and I’m killed, so be it, but make it quick and painless. If I’m wounded, don’t let me be crippled. But above all, don’t let me fuck up the task".

So goes the bomb technician’s prayer before every bomb he defuses. For Chris Hunter, it is a prayer he says many times during his four-month tour of Iraq. His is the most dangerous job in the world — to make safe the British sector in Iraq against some of the most hardened and technically advanced terrorists in the world. It is a 24/7 job — in the first two months alone, his team defuses over 45 bombs. And the people they’re up against don’t play by the Geneva Convention. For them, there are no rules, only results — death by any means necessary.

The job of a Bomb Disposal officer is a lonely one. You are alone with the sound of your own breathing and the drumming of your heart in a protective suit in forty-plus degrees of heat. The drawbridge has been pulled up behind you as you advance on your goal. It’s just you and the bomb.

But for Chris Hunter, just when life couldn’t get any more dangerous, the stakes are raised again.

Manaira in Paraiba

Sara on horseback

We have just returned from another brief trip to Manaira. If Extrema is a 'one horse town', and Pelo Sinal is a 'two horse town', then Manaira is a twenty horse town. It is lovely to see lots of working horses and donkeys. Unfortunately, this way of life has long gone in the Scottish lowlands.

Most noticeably, as you approach Manaira, the dirt-track roads are of a considerably higher standard than those in Pernambuco. As Romulo, our nephew who lives in Manaira explained, "People need to travel from Manaira to towns in Pernambuco. No-one from Pernambuco has any reason to go to Manaira!"

Don't air your dirty laundry in public!

This photo shows why it is not a good idea to air your dirty laundry in public. However, it makes a rather splendid colourful display and you have to show respect to the Dona or Dono of the casa because by bowing your head as you enter.

John Paul II Restaurant - note the place setting!

If you're hungry, I suppose a good place to eat barbecued meat, 'churrasco' could be at this churrascaria. I still can't make up my mind if the place setting logo on the wall is meant to be wrong to attract attention - or perhaps the graphic artist (and the owner) just didn't know the correct way to set the table. It usually doesn't matter anyway in north-east Brasil as with a beer you get one plate and one fork for four people to share and enjoy the freshly cooked salty barbecued beef and dipping flour. A very tasty and sociable experience.

Danceteria Night dance

....and for night entertainment, may I recommend Danceteria Night Dance!

Tourist trips are on offer, at very reasonable prices if you want to experience life as it really is in the sertão!!

House for Sale

Or, once you experience how good the life is here you would certainly be looking for a house to buy. You could probably get this one at a fantastically low price. If you are interested I could get you a good deal. Just let me know!

Festival of São João and when in Extrema, look up – not down

Perhaps we’re adjusting to living in the sertão. It certainly takes an unusual experience to prompt me to write these days. However, this month we went to four São João festas at various schools which were very entertaining and most interesting.

The São João festa at Sara's school

The host family buys the table and some individual entrance tickets and a good time is had by all. You can buy canjica and pamonha (corn dishes) but you can also get hot dog and barbecued meat as well. The usual selection of lemonade, lager beers, whisky, rum and pitu (sugar cane spirit) is sold at rock-bottom prices. It is a melange of dressing-up, dancing presentations of Xaxado or Forro to live music, story-telling, bonfires and fireworks.

Children handle fireworks. At one school a boy, delighted by the reaction of his victims, threw his fireworks into an area sectioned off as a playground where little children including Sara were playing.

The Church at Extrema

At the weekend, we went to visit Ivonete’s parents near Extrema for the São João bonfire and we went to the local church on Saturday. I sat down on an empty part of a bench seat and looked down at the floor which was littered with dirt which probably someone had brought in on their shoes.

Our godson Arthur, now 11 months old, was passed on from one member of the family to the other to keep him amused during the service. It was my turn to hold him so I took off my glasses and held them at arms length so that he couldn’t reach them. For me that is difficult as I cannot see much without them.

Just after the sermon but before communion, I suddenly felt a thump and felt a sort of scratching and clinging to my head as this creature tried to recover from its fall. I reacted by knocking it off my head into the middle of the church and being completely disorientated shouted a loud "EEEEeee --- TAAAaaaa!" It was either a very large insect or a more substantial beast. Someone grabbed the baby while Ivonete’s uncle jumped onto the creature and put it out of its misery.

The blind priest who was conducting the service must have wondered what the fuss was about but he carried on as if nothing had happened. I put on my glasses and looked into the rafters above my head where another two bats were hanging together. Those sitting next to me were most amused.

After the service the men organised a hunt and knocked these bats from their perches with a long stick. After a swipe or two, one was hit and killed. The other, having more sense, escaped.

So the moral of this tale is when you walk into an old church and see droppings on the floor, look up at the roof just in case a bat loses its grip and lands on your head too!

Luiz (Lua) Gonzaga

Chico, Ivonete's Dad, has just introduced me to the music of Luiz Gonzaga who was born near Serra Talhada and went to make his fortune in the south in the 1930's. It is said he greatly influenced MPB (Popular Music of Brasil). He came back to die in his home town about 20 years ago. His memorial there is a museum recording his lifetime achievements

Take the time to have a look at the website produced in his memory:
http://www.luizluagonzaga.com.br/

You will find free music and videos to download which typify life in the north-east of Brasil - even today outside the major towns.

Luiz Gonzaga - Respeita Januário ((Respect for Januário (his father))


Luiz Gonzaga - Asa Branca 60 Anos



Dominguinhos, Sivuca, Oswaldinho e Luiz Gonzaga


Luiz Gonzaga - A morte do vaqueiro (Death of the cowboy)



Luiz Gonzaga - 'Sabia'.
(A 'sabiá' is a very musical song bird in Brazil)

Luiz Gonzaga - 'Deixe a Tanga Voar'
This is very funny! It is about a country yokel who goes to the beach and gets crazy with the wee bikinis of the Brazilian girls. It's called 'Let the G-string fly away'!!

Casamento 2007 - Sao Luis, Maranhao

A picture speaks a thousand words!

There is no need to explain these lovely photos. A fantastic time was had by all. Many thanks, Graca and Franklin for a very memorable and wonderful wedding ceremony - just like a novela!! Good luck to Dayane and Anderson for a very happy life together.

Bride and Groom - Dayane and Anderson

The lovely little bridesmaids (Sara's in front)


Dayane's parents Graca and Franklin with Ivonete


Graca and Ivonete

See Sara - she knows how to dance!

Dental demolition, reconstruction and the tooth fairy

I had the best of intentions when I kept a slack tooth in situ for over two and a half years. I had sort of become quite attached to it - or it to me! However, it came to the point when it almost fell out by itself.

Sara was most amused and reassured me saying, “If you put your wobbly tooth under your pillow before you go to sleep, the tooth fairy will come and you’ll get a shiny silver coin in the morning.” How could I resist making a dental appointment? The tooth fairy must have visited ever so many children since I last received my shiny (? bronze) coin!

So the date was set for last Friday evening and Ivonete and I arrived ten minutes early for the appointment. I became more and more nervous as the minute hand approached the evil hour - then passed. My mind meandered silently along the very narrow track that leads to that elastic tightrope of nightmare experiences. “…….Like a lamb to the slaughter,”…. “I hope I survive,” ……… “just like the unsuspecting dog pup at the vet wagging its tail as it looks into the eyes of ‘the castrator.”……... “No, this is a dentist – not a vet,” I reassured myself. “Concentrate on something else.”

The blank grey walls did not inspire me at all. Not that it was necessary. The dentist arrived clumping heavily up concrete steps to greet us. He was a small guy, informally dressed, gentle in nature and quietly reassuring. He excused himself saying, “I’ve got the dead cow bone granules in this box”. “Ideally, my mouth ought to contain neither human nor dead cow bone granules,” I thought to myself. In for a penny…. in for a pound!

In the next room the metal implements of torture clanked onto metal trays. The rhythmic sound was only broken by light footsteps skipping up the steps. Their owner welcomed us equally charmingly and she breezed into the surgery to embrace her brother warmly. This was to be a two dentist operation. I did not know if I should be reassured by this or worry a bit more.

The operation lasted one and a half hours of swabbing, injections, unbearable operating lights, tooth-extracting, blood-letting, tube-sucking, gum-cutting, bone-scraping, tube-sucking, acid-spraying, tube-sucking, blood-spitting, water-swallowing, blood-sucking, acid-squirting, bone-packing, back-sweating, gum-stitching, palate-prodding…..... Followed by the usual hand-shaking, prescription writing and thanking and back-slapping….

The good news is the generous discount the dentist gave me for pulling only two of the three teeth planned for extraction. The bad news is I forgot to lift the extracted teeth. So Sara, I really have missed out on that ‘tooth fairy experience’, haven't I!

Sara's Spot

Sara drew these pictures !!

Tias Lucia e Graca

Cow and giraffe

Giraffe and calf

.......as if you couldn't guess !!

A funeral and a car wash carnaval melting-pot

When I was writing about a wedding and four baptisms, I recalled the film, ‘Four Weddings and a Funeral’, and thought to myself - I’m glad there hasn’t been a funeral to write about as well. Sadly, like a bad penny, it turned up.

Yesterday about 8 a.m., near Sitio Serragem, Ivonete’s uncle’s 17 year old grandson Cicero was killed. Apparently a bull had gone into the lake and Cicero’s horse followed with him on it. He shouted to his friends, “I can’t swim,” as he fell into the water. These were his last words. Unfortunately his friends couldn’t resuscitate him. It's suspected he died of heart failure.

He was due to go to school in Serra Talhada that afternoon and it was very moving to see his school friends walk to the hospital mortuary to say their last goodbye in silent acceptance. It was also very sad to see his mother arrive on foot. At first she contained her grief, then cascading tears betrayed her dignity, as she wished she could have wakened up from this nightmare.

Twenty-four hours after the accident poor Cicero was buried in the small, overcrowded, graveyard in Pelo Sinal.

This photo, taken three years ago,
is of Luan our nephew, a bull and its owner
near where Cicero lived.

In the past, Ivonete has commented, why don’t you write good things about Brasil instead of tarantulas and other horrible things? Of course she has a point as there are so many beautiful things to tell you about. Unfortunately ignoring the less pleasant does not reflect life’s reality.

Our clean truck in our garage!

On a different note, I took the truck to get washed at the local Lava Jato yesterday morning and collected it three hours later. Four men, mostly related to one another, were still hand-polishing it. In Scotland this would be a fairly formal affair. In Brasil, it was a festa! They were talking loudly, cracking jokes and telling tales. They were prancing around as if on hot coals. That’s what makes life here so fascinating – it is a Carnaval – rhythmic chaos.

For me it was a bit disconcerting. They asked how long I had been in Serra Talhada. I told them only a few months and we chatted and joked. The man who said he was a 'black man' seemed surprised when I said in a couple of years my skin would be the same colour. He shook his head and said he was born like that and continued, "You were born white and you will stay white. You’ll never be like me." I could not accept this view. I shook my head indicating, "No, I am just the same as you." After all we are all Jock Thamson's bairns.

The other lads quietened down in embarrassment and in the difficult silence an equally black lad translated our unspoken thoughts, “We’re all brothers of course – there isn't any difference (in Portuguese).” So we all smiled. shook hands, and shared a genuine sense of 'melting-pot' 'alegria' (happiness).

The eclipse, a genealogy lesson, one wedding and four baptisms!

At the weekend we went to a wedding and baptism in Pelo Sinal. Travelling north from Serra Talhada into the hills we drove past the Instituto de Pesquisas Agronômicas (IPA) (1) experimental agricultural station, which has strong research links with Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (2).

Beyond there, driving was more difficult. It was a tortuous experience, even with our 4x4 truck. During the rainy season the sandy dirt-track is flooded with water and it becomes deeply scarred with mini-gorges and rivulets. As the dirt-track ascends into the hills it gets very rocky and treacherous.

Rocky road at Sitio Serragem (with bull) - view from the truck

We arrived ninety minutes later at Ivonete’s Dad’s farm Sitio Serragem (Sawdust farm). Normally this journey takes only half that time.

To get to Pelo Sinal you have to pass through Extrema - a Pernambucana ‘one horse town’. It is a very small village, of 60 or so inhabitants, with a row of eight to ten one-storey houses set on each of the three sides of a square and an oversized church lording over all on the fourth side. Most of Extrema lies within Pernambuco but the most northerly row of houses straddles the Paraiba border.

Extrema, Pernambuco - showing the church and houses on the North side

Extrema - showing part of the street on the South side of the church

A couple of kilometres farther on is Pelo Sinal. These hill villages definitely create a time-warp. You are immediately set apart in time from the rest of the world. Two tired cowboys on two tired horses drive tired cattle into the square – no it’s not an illusion! That's the reality of this Sertấonese ‘two horse town’!

Meeting, greeting and some pre-wedding drinks

After a few drinks of Pitu and a meal with close family, we move on to one of the six bars in Pelo Sinal, four of which are next door to each other! Pitu, a sugar-cane spirit costs less than 70 pence a litre and a lager-type beer costs 50p or less for a 660 ml bottle! Teachers whisky is a little dearer at less than £6 a litre.

People are very welcoming and curious as to why the Scotsman has ended up in their midst!! They are eager to shake hands and exchange a few words. “Fala Ingles por favor.” (“Speak English please.”). “One – two – three - four - ......” Children gather round in curiosity to look at and prod the white-headed stranger who is either an 'alma' (ghost) or who is descended from another planet of another solar system. We have been to Pelo Sinal many times before but we have never spent more than an hour or two visiting close family. Hence the interest.

Then, the excitement in the centre of the square! “Come, look at the moon. It’s an eclipse!” (in Portuguese). I understood ‘look’, ’moon’, and ‘eclipse’ and went. It was an amazing sight. The southern sky was clear and only started to become hazy during the final stages. Great excitement. Boa amizade! (Good friendship). In one instance native differences melted into insignificance. We were united into the greater family of mankind.

Time passed and we ‘blethered’ (a Scots word for ‘talked’) at length. I discovered that most, if not all' of the people who live here, and in Extrema, are related to each other. To explain, Ivonete’s grandfather Joaquim Dino married again after Ivonete’s grandmother died. Ivonete reckons there are a lot more than 230 people in the living family tree.

So that was a gentle introduction for what was to follow on Sunday. The church wedding of Ivonete's cousin Monica and Deda, who had previously married in a registry office, and the baptism of their three year old son Francimagno. Monica was also godmother to two of the other three babies being baptised.

Deda and Monica's wedding


Monica, Francimagno, Deda, Ivonete and Richard

To be part of this extended family is a rich experience. Perhaps I’ll write more about them later. Meanwhile, I’ll leave you with a photo taken at Extrema recently.

Only one person in the photo, the lady in the top left, is not a family member.

This could be an excellent place for genealogical research – any bidders? Contact me by email (3) if you are interested and I'll do my best to help.

(1) Instituto de Pesquisas Agronômicas (IPA): http://www.ipa.br/

(2) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew - Plantas do Nordeste (PNE): http://www.rbgkew.org.uk/scihort/tropamerica/pne.htm

(3) Cut and paste our email address: rismcgill@oi.com.br

First Impressions: giant butterfly; baby snake & lizard; and tarantulas!

Giant butterfly

This butterfly came into our house and revisited us a few days later – looking somewhat storm-worn.

I’m not actually sure if it’s a butterfly or a moth. Please tell me what it is if you know!! Locals say if it comes into your house you are going to hear about a death. ??? !!!!

Baby snake & lizard

Some days later, in the same bathroom where the butterfly landed, a little snake, only 10 cm long, tied itself in knots wriggling and squirming across the slippery ceramic floor. Likewise, a very tiny lizard sought sanctuary below the sink. Both met a swift end when our housekeeper spotted them.

Tarantulas

Recently, we observed three of these massive, hairy, black tarantulas at close range near, at and in our house!! Each appeared to be at least 15 cm across and about 10 cm high. Here they are appropriately called ‘caranguejos’ (crabs).

I cannot find a photo exactly like the jet-black
ones we have seen but this one is similar.

It wasn't a pleasant experience to view this first thing in the morning, cowering in a corner under the bathroom sink, close to where I had been standing with bare feet a few minutes earlier!

I am told they are relatively harmless. The sting is similar to that of a bee. The hairs are used as the basis of itching powder. They don’t have a brain but instead have two clumps of neurones.

As they can move at a great speed, the most common method of disposal is to spray them with alcohol and set them on fire. Quite a cruel death – I think.

Ivonete’s advice is to always check below, behind and inside the toilet before you sit down!! She remembers one crawling out of the water…………. ………..!!!!

Enough said !!

It's a Hard Rain That's Goin' to Fall in the Sertão !!

This photo shows Ivonete and Sara overlooking the almost dry lake at Sitio Poço Mill which Ivonete's grandfather ran many years ago.

How lucky we are to be living in a part of Brasil which has sunshine all year round.

Well, that's what I thought when we arrived in this baker's oven, in the centre of the Sertão, five months ago. As temperatures ranged from 35 to 40 degrees Celsius you had to open the car doors and wait a few minutes. If you didn't, the hot air almost cauterised your throat!

By contrast, we are now in the midst of the loudest thunderstorms and heaviest downpours imaginable. The water floods the streets in minutes and all you can do is to wait until it stops.

People love the rainy season of course. Relief from the water shortage is apparent. Children shower excitedly in the street under roof drain water spouts. Frogs the size of dinner plates congregate in dozens on the door step braying like donkeys after a banquet of insects and beetles. Goats almost smile as they fill their bellies on the new lush grass. Farmers have waited many months for this precious rain to germinate their crops.

At the beginning of the year, in a small village called Extrema high up in the hills on the Pernambuco - Paraiba border, the old padre, having intimate knowledge of these things, told his flock to expect plenty rain this year. Previously, all years ending in seven had been very wet. Local knowledge is a wonderful thing.

So - it's a Hard Rain That's Goin' to Fall in the Sertão. Perhaps we'll wait a little longer to replace our leaky roof!